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The Ultimate Guide to Fall Bulb Planting

Spring flowering bulbs.:

FALL Bulbs offer reliable color. Once planted, simply wait for the display. All sorts of bulbs bloom at different times of the year, but the best to plant in fall for spring bloom include tulips, daffodils, grape hyacinth, crocus, and hyacinth.

These spring-blooming bulbs can be planted anytime in autumn until the ground freezes. They need several weeks of cold temperatures to grow correctly, so if you live where it stays warm year-round, buy pre-chilled bulbs and don't expect them to return after they bloom. These simple guidelines for how to plant spring bulbs will help you create a beautiful garden to enjoy next year.

Ready to enjoy the simple beauty of flowering bulbs? You've come to the right place. Because while planting is as simple as Dig.Drop.Done, there's no end to the number of ways you can make your garden special. Endless inspiration begins here.

Basic Planting Guide.

Plant your flower bulbs in the fall or early winter

 Plant in borders or containers in sun or partial shade

 Plant the bulbs three times the size of the bulb deep

 Space the bulbs two times the size of the bulb apart

 Plant the bulbs in well drained soil

 Plant the bulbs with the pointed side facing upwards

Tulip Bulbs , Fringed Tulip (RED WING) Fall Planting Bulbs! - Caribbean garden seed

The Best Technique for Forcing Spring Bulbs Indoors

Forcing Bulbs For Winter Joy - BRING ON SPRING! 

Waiting for those eagerly anticipated spring flowers can be exciting, but there comes a point when it can turn a bit dreary. Those winter months can be so very long…and so very grey…If only there was something that could make those happy flower bulbs start blooming a little earlier…

What if I told you that you can make your winter wishes come true this year? That you can have your favorite spring colors grow indoors for you, whenever you want? The name of this gardening magic is bulb forcing, although the word coaxing would describe the process a bit better. All you have to do is trick the bulbs into believing winter has come and gone, and they will present their hidden spring delights in any season.

Forcing Bulbs – It’s Easier Than You Think

The most commonly forced flower bulbs are hyacinths, paperwhites, muscari (grape hyacinths), amaryllis, tulips and crocus.

 Underground Magic

For a flower bulb to understand that it’s time to start flowering, it needs to have had a few months of hibernation. If you plant your bulbs in the garden in the fall, nature will take care of this for you. While you go about your life, the cold and dark conditions underground will help flower bulbs to produce good roots that can support amazing blooms once the plant ‘wakes up’. Forcing flower bulbs is all about simulating this process, but at a time that you have chosen.

Forcing Bulbs in water

The first thing you have to do is simulate winter by pre-chilling your flower bulbs. This means keeping them in a dry, cold place where it’s between 35 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit, for 12 to 15 weeks, depending on the variety. The easiest place to chill your flower bulbs is in your fridge, although make sure not to chill them next to fruit or vegetables, as these might adversely affect the process. Simply place them in a paper bag and leave them in the cold for as long as this specific bulb variety needs to pre-chill. Other good places to pre-chill your flower bulbs are a barely heated garage, a barn, a cool basement or an enclosed porch.

 Glass vessels and pretty pebbles

Once the chilling time is over you can start forcing your flower bulb in water. To do this you can use any glass vessel (vase, bowl, square vase). The key is to place your bulb in such a way that only the very bottom gets wet. A good way to do this is by filling the glass with pebbles and nesting the bulbs together on the very top. You can get a lovely effect by placing 3 hyacinth bulbs together, or a mix of 12 tulip bulbs. Place them tight together so they give you a good flower show and will support each other when growing. Then fill the vessel with water but only just up to the bottom of the bulbs. Place the vase in a brightly lit room and after a few weeks you will be presented with an amazing antidote for the winter blues!

Forcing bulbs in soil

To force a flower bulb in soil, you chill them after planting. Take a clay pot and cover its bottom with about 1 inch of gravel. Then fill the pot with at least two inches of soil mix. Great flower bulbs for soil forcing are bright-yellow miniature daffodils or hyacinths, as they will add a touch of cheerful color and lovely fragrance to a room and make wonderful centerpieces for a table. Place the bulbs in the pot, very closely together, then cover up completely with soil and water them. Place the pot in a cold basement or in a refrigerator (but not with fruit or vegetables) and leave it there for about 10 to 15 weeks depending on how long your chosen variety needs. Do check often to make sure the bulbs don’t get too dry. Make sure not to over water them. Flower bulbs like water but when they sit in it they will start to rot. When the first shoots appear you take the pot out of the refrigerator but leave it in a cool place (60F) for about a week. When the sprouts begin to turn green, you move the pot to a sunny window, and water the bulbs daily. Watch them grow, and chase the winter blahs away with your wonderful spring-preview!

Even quicker

If you crave some springtime loveliness in your house, but feel you can’t wait 10-12 weeks, I have good news for you. The lovely paperwhite and amaryllis bulbs don’t need any chilling at all before you start forcing them. Quick and easy to start, they'll bloom within six to ten weeks of forcing. Order them today and give yourself indoor blooms not only for the holidays but throughout the winter by planting them batch after batch.

Tulip & Daffodil Care & Tips

Soil and Preparation: 

Adequate soil preparation is crucial for successful tulip and daffodil planting. Choose a well-drained site with full sunlight to partial shade.Loosen the soil to a depth of 12-15 inches to promote healthy root development. Incorporate organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to enrich the soil with nutrients and improve its structure. Ensure the soil pH is slightly acidic to neutral, ideally between 6.0 and 7.0, to create an optimal growing environment. Before planting, remove any weeds or debris to reduce competition for nutrients. Once the soil is prepared, plant tulip bulbs 6-8 inches deep and daffodil bulbs 3-6 inches deep, spacing them 4-6 inches apart. Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil and encourage root establishment. Proper soil preparation will provide a strong foundation for vibrant blooms in the spring. 

Planting: 

Planting tulips and daffodils requires careful attention to depth, spacing, and timing to ensure a vibrant spring display. Start by selecting high-quality bulbs and a sunny to partially shaded location with well-drained soil. For tulips, plant the bulbs 6-8 inches deep, while daffodils should be planted 3-6 inches deep. Space the bulbs 4-6 inches apart to allow for adequate growth and airflow. Position the bulbs with the pointed end facing up. Planting should occur in the fall, ideally between late September and early November, when the soil temperature is below 60°F (15°C) to allow for proper root establishment before winter. After planting, water the area thoroughly to help settle the soil around the bulbs and promote rooting. Applying a 2-3 inch layer of mulch can help retain moisture and insulate the bulbs during the winter months. Following these steps will ensure a healthy, colorful bloom in the spring. 

Watering: 

Proper watering is crucial for the healthy growth of tulips and daffodils. After planting the bulbs in the fall, water them thoroughly to settle the soil and initiate the rooting process. Ensure that the water penetrates the soil to reach the bulbs, but avoid waterlogging, as this can cause the bulbs to rot 

During the fall, if rainfall is insufficient, water the bulbs once a week, providing about 1 inch of water each time. Continue this routine until the ground freezes. Once the ground is frozen, additional watering is not necessary, as the bulbs will be dormant. 

In the spring, as the bulbs begin to grow and the shoots emerge, resume regular watering. Tulips and daffodils require consistent moisture but should not be overwatered. Water them deeply once a week, ensuring the soil remains evenly moist but not soggy. It's best to water in the morning to allow excess moisture to evaporate during the day, reducing the risk of fungal diseases. 

After the flowers have bloomed and the foliage starts to yellow, gradually reduce watering. This allows the bulbs to enter dormancy and prepare for the next growing season. Proper watering practices will support the growth and longevity of your tulips and daffodils, resulting in beautiful blooms each year. 

Fertilization During Growth:  

Fertilization is an important aspect of ensuring the healthy growth and vibrant blooms of tulips and daffodils. To start, mix a balanced, slow-release fertilizer into the soil when planting the bulbs in the fall. This initial feeding provides essential nutrients for root development during the winter months. 

In the spring, as the shoots begin to emerge, apply a water-soluble, balanced fertilizer (such as a 10-10-10 or 5-10-10 formula) to support vigorous growth and flowering. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the correct dilution and application rates. Apply the fertilizer when the foliage is dry to avoid burning the leaves, and water the plants thoroughly afterward to help the nutrients reach the root zone. 

After the flowers have bloomed, continue to fertilize the plants until the foliage starts to yellow and die back. This post-bloom fertilization helps replenish the bulbs' nutrient stores, preparing them for the next growing season. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers during this period, as they can promote excessive leaf growth at the expense of bulb development. 

Proper fertilization practices will enhance the overall health and flowering potential of your tulips and daffodils, ensuring a stunning display year after year. 

Weed and Insect Control: 

Effective weed and insect control are crucial for maintaining the health and beauty of tulips and daffodils. Here are some guidelines for managing these potential problems: 

Weed Control 

  1. Mulching: Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the plants. This helps suppress weed growth, retain soil moisture, and regulate soil temperature.
  2. Hand Weeding: Regularly check for and remove weeds by hand, especially around young shoots, to prevent competition for nutrients and water. Be careful not to disturb the bulbs or roots.
  3. Pre-emergent Herbicides: Use pre-emergent herbicides in the fall or early spring before weeds germinate. Select a product that is safe for use around bulbs and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Insect Control 

  1. Monitoring: Regularly inspect plants for signs of insect damage, such as chewed leaves, holes, or distorted growth.
  2. Physical Barriers: Use physical barriers like row covers or netting to protect young plants from insect pests.
  3. Beneficial Insects: Encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings, which prey on harmful pests. Plant companion flowers that attract these beneficial insects.
  4. Insecticidal Soap: For minor infestations, use insecticidal soap sprays to control aphids, mites, and other soft-bodied insects. Apply according to the label instructions, ensuring thorough coverage of the plants.
  5. Neem Oil: Neem oil is an effective organic option for controlling a wide range of insects. Spray it on affected plants, following the manufacturer’s guidelines.

By implementing these weed and insect control measures, you can protect your tulips and daffodils from common threats, ensuring they remain healthy and vibrant throughout their growing season. 

Digging Corms (bulbs) **can stay the same** 

If you live where the ground does not freeze in the winter, you may choose not to dig your corms; however, disease and crowding may reduce the amount and quality of your bloom. You should remove plant tops 6-8 weeks after bloom and remove them from the garden to prevent the spread of disease. It is suggested that you dig and divide your corms every couple of years, being sure to discard any damaged or diseased corms. If you live where the ground freezes, you will need to dig your corms each year, or if you choose not to dig, purchase new corms in the spring. Corms should be lifted in the fall before the onset of freezing weather. About 6-8 weeks after blooming, the corms may be harvested by loosening the soil with a spade or digging fork so that the plants can be pulled up by hand. The plant should be separated from the corm as close to the corm as possible, either by hand breaking or by cutting with pruning shears.  You should remove the old plant tops from the field to prevent carryover of disease. The corms should be cleaned or rinsed off with running water, and then spread out to dry in shallow layers in trays or porous bags in an airy location that will not freeze for a period of 2 to 3 weeks.  During this time a cork layer forms between the new corm and the old mother corm and roots. Break off and discard this old corm as soon as possible. Undue delay in cleaning results in greater difficulty in removal of the old corm. 

Bulb Storage 

Storing tulip and daffodil bulbs properly is essential to ensure they remain healthy and ready for planting in the next growing season. Here are the steps to store these bulbs effectively: 

Cleaning and Preparing Bulbs 

  1. Harvest Timing: Dig up the bulbs 6-8 weeks after blooming, once the foliage has yellowed and died back. This allows the bulbs to store energy for the next season.
  2. Digging Up: Carefully loosen the soil around the bulbs using a spade or digging fork. Lift the bulbs gently to avoid damage.
  3. Cleaning: Shake off excess soil and gently brush the bulbs clean. Do not wash them with water, as excess moisture can lead to rot. Remove any remaining plant tops and roots.

Drying 

  1. Drying Process: Place the cleaned bulbs in a single layer on a tray, screen, or shallow container. Ensure they are in a dry, well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight. Allow the bulbs to dry for 1-2 weeks. This curing process helps to form a protective layer over the bulbs, preventing diseases and rot.

Storing 

  1. Storage Containers: Once the bulbs are dry, store them in mesh bags, paper bags, or cardboard boxes with ventilation holes. Avoid using plastic bags as they can trap moisture, leading to rot.
  2. Storage Conditions: Store the bulbs in a cool, dark place with good air circulation. The ideal storage temperature is between 50-60°F (10-15°C). Ensure the storage area is dry to prevent mold and mildew.
  3. Avoid Freezing: Make sure the storage location does not freeze, as freezing temperatures can damage the bulbs.

Periodic Inspection 

  1. Regular Checks: Periodically check the stored bulbs for signs of rot or disease. Remove any bulbs that show signs of decay to prevent them from affecting healthy bulbs.

By following these steps, you can ensure that your tulip and daffodil bulbs remain in good condition during their dormancy period and are ready for planting in the next growing season. Proper storage is key to preserving the health and vitality of the bulbs, ensuring a beautiful and bountiful display of flowers.